Holy Chaos

Today is the Good Friday of Eastern Christianity, and countless Christians wander all around the city in the footsteps of Jesus.
Today is the seventh day of the Passover, and countless Jews wander to the Western Wall to pray.
Today is Friday, the holy day of Islam, and countless Muslims wander to the mosques.
The salesmen, who serve no other master than Capital - at least when their shops are open - part everyone of their money, the believers and non-believers alike.
There's a sniper positioned in a window above the Damascus gate. He looks like he's about 19 years old.
On the other side of the gate there's a small cafe, with a picture of the Patriarch of Alexandria on the wall. Under his gaze the owner serves everyone, his Muslim neighbors, Finnish tourists, Ethiopian pilgrims an Israeli soldiers alike, in the same loud and friendly way, like his ancestors did when the Ottomans, or the Crusaders, or king Solomon ruled the city.
A most endearing old English gentleman welcomes us to the site of Jesus' grave. This is a different place from the other Jesus' grave we visited yesterday. There the monks took selfies with their cellphones in the Holy Sepulchre.
Slogans are chanted on Nablus road - a riot! Should we run away? Where to? But it is not a protest after all, just a shopkeeper, even louder than the others.
On the Western Wall children are more interested in chasing the pigeons than in the fact that they are in the focal point of the most volatile political crisis in the World.
In the evening three young men haul garbage on a cart, powered only by their muscles, shouting and joking at each other and passersby, past shops that sell overpriced trinkets to pilgrims, exactly like other young men did two thousand years before them.
The waiters in an Armenian restaurant are wearing t-shirts with a picture of suffering Christ, the Crown of Thorns on his head.
In the city museum there is a small Egyptian clay statue, more than 3000 years old. It bears an inscription: "Cursed be Jerusalem".

Jerusalem, April 29th 2016