My First Visit to Kentucky

John A. Roebling bridge connects Cincinnati, Ohio and Covington, Kentucky, here pictured from Kentucky side.

A few years ago I attended a conference in Cincinnati, Ohio. Afterwards I had a few days off, and spent an afternoon visiting the neighboring city of Covington, Kentucky, across the river from Cincinnati, easily accessed by crossing a bridge. While I didn't see any particularly memorable sights in Covington, my visit was... unforgettable.

Right after crossing the bridge I met my first Kentuckian. He was apparently homeless and dressed in a full, jolly red and very, very dirty Santa Claus costume, including the hat. The beard seemed to be natural, not part of the costume. It was September, and the temperature was 29C (84F).

Then, I noticed a small clothes shop advertising affordable T-Shirts, and as I needed some I bought a couple. The saleswoman, a lady much younger than myself, addressed me as "Sweetheart". My American friends tell me this is polite and not exceptional, but it surely is not something I've learned to expect in Finland.

At this time I concluded that I needed a beer. Thankfully, I just came across a pub. The bartender not only asked to see my ID (I was in my early 40s at the time), but also offered me a job in the pub. Being a foreign visitor with no work permit in the States, I declined. This was a couple of months before the 2016 US presidential election, and after learning that I came from Finland he burst into a monologue - I would describe it as a fiery sermon - about (mostly) Donald Trump and how he would sell America to Vladimir Putin, if elected. I tipped him generously.

I drank, of course, a local beer: Kertucky Old Fashioned Barrel Ale, recommended!.

I first visited Kentucky on September 20th, 2016.

The world's best snack booths

Sausage in Vienna.

I am not what you would call a culinarist. I like good food as much as the next person, but as a rule, I concentrate on other things when travelling, and do not like to invest a lot of time in finding places to eat. Consequently, I often end up eating some kind of fast food, That said, I try to avoid international chains and eat at places ran and frequented by locals, when at all practical.

However, this does not (always) mean that the food I eat is bad. On the contrary, often fast, affordable and tasty are served on the same plate. Here are a few highlights I've encountered.

Tima-Irma, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
The hungry of Mostar, locals and tourists alike, have found their way to Tima-Irma ever since the days of Marshal Tito, and been hungry no more. As always in Herzegovina (and Bosnia, as well as in Croatia and Montenegro), Čevapčići is excellent, and so is everything else. Prices are reasonable. Tima-Irma also serves tasty local beer, which is not easy to find.

Look for this sign on  Onešćukova street, east from the Bridge.

Tima-Irma may be my favorite of all, and I have recommended it to many fellow travelers. They all have loved it and spread the word. I may have accidentally started a cult.

We have eaten at Tima-Irma in 2009 and 2012.

El Farolito, San Francisco, California, U.S.A.
This place, situated in the corner of Mission and 24th, serves burritos that may change your life. As a lot of other people want to eat there too, prepare for queues and chaos. The process of ordering and serving at El Farolito may be confusing for first-timers. First, one queues to the counter, where the orders are placed and paid. There one receives a slip of paper with a number on it, and beverages (I recommend one the Mexican fruit sodas), Then one tries to find a seat, or, if all seats are taken, remains standing wherever there is room. Soon, a waiter will be walking up and down the aisle, shouting numbers in Spanish and English. One should listen for the two last numbers on the slip received at the counter (it's a 5-number code but the first three don't matter). Note that there is no logical connection between the numbers and the order in which the food is served: if one has, for example, a slip ending in 56, the previous one may be 33, 48 or 71.

Somehow I failed to take any pictures in El Farolito, so this is from Wikimedia Commons, by Rick Audet of San Francisco.

Any inconveniences are forgotten when the food arrives - it is indescribably good. San Francisco is in general expensive, but Farolito's prices are reasonable. It serves some exotic (for North Europeans) specialties, like tongue burritos. The uninitiated, like me, may find some Mexican foods extremely spicy. I recommend Quesadillas: the cheese balances the burning chili peppers nicely.

It should be mentioned that the waiter in El Farolito is, at the time of writing, only person who has ever addressed me as "bro".

We ate in El Farolito in June 2015. Twice.

The sausage stand with the green bunny, Vienna, Austria
We visited Vienna very briefly. We were tipped by a local about a sausage stand behind the Opera House. It was a good tip.

The green bunny  is easily recognized .

There are about a dozen different kinds of sausages. We tried Waldviertel and Red Bratwurst. Both were excellent. I recommend local märzen beer, but you can splurge on a bottle of real Champagne if you feel like it. Prices are reasonable: we paid less than 10€ for two sausages and two beers.

We ate sausages in Vienna in August 2016.

Oakland Museum of California - the best place to spend a Friday Night in the San Francisco Bay area

Dancing is not only permitted, it's encouraged.

Oakland Museum of California, or OMCA, is one of the most pleasant museums I've ever visited (and I've visited quite a few). If you generally like museums, go to OMCA. If you generally do not like museums, go to OMCA still. If you can, go there on a Friday night, when tickets are half-price (free for everyone under 18), there's live music on the courtyard, street food for sale from food carts as well as beer and wine from local small producers, and themed guided tours in the exhibitions. Not surprisingly, there were a lot of people of all ages and the mood was generally very relaxed and good.

Because one always has to have some complaints, I complain about the queues to the food carts.

Even if you are not in Oakland on a Friday night, OMCA is well worth visiting. The permanent historical exhibition is well designed and executed, covering a very wide range of subjects but compact enough to be comprehensible and not overwhelming. I was particularly impressed by the way the exhibition deals with the history and experience of "common people" and their stories. For example the sections dealing with Native American peoples of California and social history of 1960s and 70s were created co-operatively with local residents and communities, showcasing everyday stories of ordinary people in an interesting and engaging way. In addition to the historical exhibition, there are also natural history and temporary themed exhibitions.

In OMCA, the Native Americans tell their own stories.

Local memories from 1960s, many people from Oakland seem to remember it as a dark and violent decade.

Ronald Reagan's poster for the 1968 Republican party presidential candidate race. That time, he lost.

During the Great Depression of late 1920s and early 30s many people from th American Midwest went to California to look for a better life. They often rode overloaded T-model Fords like this one.

Many things are invented in California, for example portable computer.

OMCA isn't afraid of dealing with difficult matters.

We visited OMCA on June 26th 2015, on a Friday night.

The Canyon

Bright Angel Point, the first part of the Canyon we saw. Click this to see the full-sized panorama picture.

In Northern Arizona, the Colorado River has in the course of about 17 million years carved a really, really big hole in the ground. The Grand Canyon is 1857 meter (6093 feet) deep, 29 kilometer (18 miles) wide, 447 kilometer (277 miles) long and makes you feel very, very small.

Point Imperial, the highest point on the Rim.

Panorama of Point Imperial. Full-sized picture is here.

Today the Grand Canyon is one of the most popular tourist destinations of the World. It gets approximately 5 million visitors every year, which is funny to us, because that's also roughly the population of Finland. About 4,5 million only visit the southern rim of the canyon. This was one of the reasons we decided to visit the North Rim. It was crowded enough, too, even though we visited in June, before the busiest summer season. (A friend recommended North Rim, for which we're thankful. Thanks again, Ruth.)

A lot of wildlife can be seen in and near the Canyon, there are even bisons. We only saw deer and lizards.

The scenery in Grand Canyon is unbelievable. I found myself wondering if it actually is real, or a great hoax made with powerful computer graphics and advanced 3D projection technology?

Angel's Window vantage point. I think the name refers to the hole in the rock, visible on the right.

A baffling thing about the Grand Canyon is that in many places it would be easy to walk some 20 meter (60 feet) from the Rim without knowing that the Canyon is there. As we were driving on the scenic roads, there often was a forest on one side of the road, not unlike the forests in Finland, and a vertical half-mile drop on the other.

The view from Angel's Window pictured with a fisheye lens.

We spent one full day on the Canyon. That was enough to visit several vantage points in a relaxed pace. We also had time for a lunch in Grand Canyon Lodge. Food was good and not as horribly overpriced as I would have expected.

Walhalla vantage point.

Perhaps the most impressive thing we saw was the Grand Canyon sunset, observed from the balcony of the Lodge. We were smart enough to capture first-row seats early. The light and colors changed constantly as the sun descended. The view left us (but not the American tourists) speechless. The sunrise would probably be equally impressive, but since in June it takes place before 6 am we missed it.

The last rays of the setting sun.

In January, almost six months before our trip, I tried to book us a room on the North Rim within the National Park. Everything was fully booked. We ended up staying in Jacob Lake resort. Confusingly, there's no lake anywhere near it. The drive to the Canyon Rim took about one hour each way. When we returned, in the dark after sunset, things got a little scary. There were a lot of deer crossing the road, and even a cow and a calf. There was even a warning sign for bisons, but thankfully we saw none on the road.

A white-tailed Kaibab Squirrel in Jacob Lake. This kind of squirrel only lives near the North Rim of Grand Canyon. Squirrels on the south are different subspecies: the Canyon is an unbridgeable obstacle for squirrels.

We found Jacob Lake a nice place to stay. Prices were a little high, but so they are everywhere near attractions like Grand Canyon. Our cabin was comfortable, and the resort has a shop, a restaurant and a bakery. Chocolate and raspberry cookies get our highest recommendation. As experiences go they rival the Grand Canyon sunset. The cookies alone make Jacob Lake worth a stop! Sunset Amber Ale brewed by a local brewery was tasty.

The breakfast was not included in accommodation prices but featured lovely American-style pancakes with sponge like texture, so that they can absorb ridiculous amounts of delicious maple syrup. Those fortunate enough to have experienced an American breakfast know what I mean. Jacob Lake also offers lectures on things like landscape photography and history of the Navajo around Grand Canyon. Unfortunately we didn't have time to attend any.

We visited Grand Canyon on June 13th 2015.

Pleasant surprises in Utah

Zion National Park.

At least in Finland the name of Utah conjures images of fundamental mormons, restrictive legislation and generally conservative social climate. For us Utah was one of the most pleasant surprises of our trip. Of course we cannot claim to know the state very well at all. We only popped in twice from Arizona to the southernmost part of Utah and spent only about 24 hours in the state, including one overnight stop.

A small Scutellosaurus in St. George.

Our first stop in Utah was the St. George Dinosaur Discovery site. I have wanted to have my own pet dinosaur been very interested in dinosaurs since an early age. Actually I'm kind of fanatic about them. As there are no dinosaur fossils where I come from (thanks a lot, Ice Age), I was very keen to see an authentic fossil site. Some exceptional footprint fossils, about 200 million years old, were discovered in 2000 at Johnson Farm, close to central St. George.

Now there is a small but well-kept museum displaying footprints and other fossils, and real dinosaurs but unfortunately one is not allowed to pet and feed them life-like reconstructions of jurassic dinosaurs.

I know that some people lead empty and meaningless lives are not as enthusiastic about dinosaurs as I am. Maybe not everyone would be as interested in the St. George museum as me. However, I highly recommend the place for those who care about dinosaurs even a little. It is not a huge museum, so it makes a good stop in a long day of driving: if your schedule is busy, four hours half an hour is enough to get a meaningful overview of the exhibitions.

Dinosaur fottprints from 200 million years ago.

From St. George we continued towards the Grand Canyon, but decided to make a detour through Zion National Park. We drove through it on a scenic mountain road constructed in 1930. The scenery was awe-inspiring, and very different from what we had seen in Yosemite, for example. Through millennia water has eroded red sandstone, which is soft and crumbles easily. This has resulted in some peculiar, dream-like shapes.

Checkerboard Mesa in Zion.

Up on the mountains the temperature dropped to a tolerable level, well under 30 centigrade (86 Fahrenheit). Of course, there's much more to see and do in Zion than we had time for.

Up in the mountains of Zion.

Soon after leaving the National Park we stopped by a beautiful small pond for a snack and to switch drivers. At the same time, a group of six bikers pulled to the same parking lot. They looked exactly the kind of bikers one sees in American movies, long hair and beards, black leather vests, and they definetely did not wear helmets when riding - a bit of a scary-looking bunch. I admit that I was prejudiced and a little concerned when  they approached us. There was absolutely no reason to be afraid - they asked us, very politely, if we could kindly take a picture of their group in front of the pond!

A couple of days later, after visiting the Grand Canyon, we made an overnight stop in the small town of Bluff, Utah, close to the Arizona border. I have been to the USA once before, then in New York and Boston. Then I heard many Americans describe New Yorkers as a unfriendly and rude. I was surprised, as I found them very nice and helpful.

On this trip I understand where this comes from. All the people - really, every one - we met in rural Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and California were incredibly friendly, polite and helpful. We, reserved Finns as we are, sometimes even felt awkward. I see that in comparison, even a friendly and easy-going city like New York may indeed seem unwelcoming.

An example of this helpfulness: we needed to do laundry in Bluff. We arrived in the town late in the evening, and the only laundry shop was just closing. Before I could say anything, the manager told me she lived right across the street, so I could take my time washing our clothes and knock on her door when I'm done so she can close the shop after that, no problem, hope you've enjoyed your trip so far, oh you've seen the Grand Canyon, magnificent isn't it, make sure not to miss Monument Valley...

"Polygamy Porter, proudly brewed in Utah". A Utah brewery pokes fun at fundamental latter-day saints. Quite tasty, too.

If you ever visit the region, Bluff gets my warm recommendations even though there's not much to see and do in the tiny town itself. Landscape is beautiful and there are many interesting places nearby. We stayed in  Kokopelli Inn and liked it. There are a couple of other motels and inns, too.

We visited the dinosaurs of St. George and Zion National Park on June 12th 2015. We stayed in Bluff June 14th to 15th.