Holy Chaos

Today is the Good Friday of Eastern Christianity, and countless Christians wander all around the city in the footsteps of Jesus.
Today is the seventh day of the Passover, and countless Jews wander to the Western Wall to pray.
Today is Friday, the holy day of Islam, and countless Muslims wander to the mosques.
The salesmen, who serve no other master than Capital - at least when their shops are open - part everyone of their money, the believers and non-believers alike.
There's a sniper positioned in a window above the Damascus gate. He looks like he's about 19 years old.
On the other side of the gate there's a small cafe, with a picture of the Patriarch of Alexandria on the wall. Under his gaze the owner serves everyone, his Muslim neighbors, Finnish tourists, Ethiopian pilgrims an Israeli soldiers alike, in the same loud and friendly way, like his ancestors did when the Ottomans, or the Crusaders, or king Solomon ruled the city.
A most endearing old English gentleman welcomes us to the site of Jesus' grave. This is a different place from the other Jesus' grave we visited yesterday. There the monks took selfies with their cellphones in the Holy Sepulchre.
Slogans are chanted on Nablus road - a riot! Should we run away? Where to? But it is not a protest after all, just a shopkeeper, even louder than the others.
On the Western Wall children are more interested in chasing the pigeons than in the fact that they are in the focal point of the most volatile political crisis in the World.
In the evening three young men haul garbage on a cart, powered only by their muscles, shouting and joking at each other and passersby, past shops that sell overpriced trinkets to pilgrims, exactly like other young men did two thousand years before them.
The waiters in an Armenian restaurant are wearing t-shirts with a picture of suffering Christ, the Crown of Thorns on his head.
In the city museum there is a small Egyptian clay statue, more than 3000 years old. It bears an inscription: "Cursed be Jerusalem".

Jerusalem, April 29th 2016

Chernobyl - What will it be like after the Apocalypse?

The Accident happened in reactor number 4, which was situated in the part of the building to the left of the picture. The reactor number 3, to the right, remained in production until December 2000.

Mankind, as a species, is far from perfection. Sooner or later human beings will make mistakes. This applies to all human activity. Smaller mistakes may remain unnoticed. Often mankind is able to repair the consequences of its bigger mistakes, too. Some big errors, however, may result in irreversible disaster and destruction.

One of the costliest mistakes of human history took place about 30 years before I wrote these lines. It happened in Soviet Union's Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plat, in present-day Ukraine very close to the Belorussian border. Actually it was a series of mistakes, as usual in the history of great disasters. A relatively simple explanation of what happened is found here. There are numerous more detailed accounts in books and online, including Wikipedia.

I was a child at the time of the disaster, but I remember it well. I recall a sense of nervous uncertainty. What exactly has really happened? How dangerous it really is? Will we die of cancer if we go out when it rains? Can we eat wild berries ever again?  Do we have to leave our homes? In fact, the Chernobyl disaster had almost no effect on my life, or anyone's life in Finland. Those 150 000 Ukrainians and Belorussians who had to leave their homes, now dangerously close to the disaster area, were worse off. "Only" 41 deaths have been directly attributed to the disaster, but human and econimical cost of health problems and environmental damage are probably impossible to calculate.

A memorial to the firefighters killed in the disaster.

Today it is possible to visit Chernobyl on an organized tour. I visited the area in 2011, a few months after the 25th anniversary of the disaster. Access to the immediate area around the power plant is strictly controlled by the Ukrainian authorities. The only permissible way to see the area is group tours, which are organized by several tour companies in Kiev. Every company seemed to charge a similar price, which, of course, raises some questions. I bought my ticket from Solo East Travel and have no complaints about the services. A little bureaucracy was required before the trip: I gave my personal data and passport number to the company when placing my reservation, and immediately after arriving in Kiev, the day before the tour, visited the company office to pay reservation fee.

Anyone who plans visiting Chernobyl should be aware that the Ukrainian authorities have occasionally cancelled all tours to the area on short notice. This happened shortly before I had booked my trip, and it was quite uncertain until last minute if I would get to Chernobyl at all. The current conflict between Ukraine and Russia affects everything in Ukraine. Things may change rapidly and are difficult to predict. It should be noted that the focal point of the crisis is far away from Chernobyl, in Crimea and Eastern Ukraine and conflict has caused no danger to travelers in other parts of Ukraine. Kiev and areas around Chernobyl have remained peaceful.

Warning signs at the entrance to Chernobyl restricted area.

My group's bus left Kiev early in the morning, and returned in the evening. Around the plant, there are two controlled areas, a smaller closed area right around the plant and a bigger restricted area around the closed area. Access to both areas was strictly controlled, the passports were checked on arrival and radiation levels on visitors' bodies and clothes are measured on leaving. A guide joined our group in the restricted area. It is strictly forbidden to move on one's own in the areas, everyone must remain with their group. The guides are employed by the government of Ukraine, not the tour companies. The guide assigned to our group was excellent, he gave a thorough account of the events and answered our numerous questions in a friendly and apprehensible manner.

Even in the closed area the radiation is not much more intense than natural background radiation. We were told that a flight over Atlantic results exposes passengers to more radiation than a day-trip to Chernobyl. However, everyone had to sign a document resigning the right to take legal action against the Ukrainian government in case of loss of health after visiting Chernobyl.

A short introduction to the events.

The authorities procrastinated with the decision to evacuate the area, but when the operation finally begun it was executed rapidly.  We were told that the children in this kindergarten were having a nap when suddenly buses appeared to take them away.

Toys lef outside the kindergarten.

Radioactive fallout is absorbed by vegetation and trees in the area. A forest fire in Chernobyl is a huge risk, because the fallout could be released back to atmosphere from the burning trees and it could be widely distributed by the wind.

Personally, the abandoned town of Pripyat was most impressive. Particularly the school made me think: I was a schoolkid myself at the time of the accident. Even if Soviet 1980s school materials look rather different than Finnish, the classrooms felt eerily familiar. It was easy to picture my own school in similar state after 25 years of abandonment. I could not avoid thinking that all the world may some day look like Pripyat, after mankind has destroyed itself.

The nature is reclaiming the closed area. Pripyat is turning to a forest, and roots of the trees slowly shatter concrete. I find this thought both scary and comforting.

Best hotel in Pripyatt.

A classroom in the school.

Forest has conquered the school courtyard.

Pripyat indoor swimming pool.

A traveling funfair remains permanently on a square in Pripyat.

Moss grows on bumper car track.

In Chernobyl, dress in a long-sleeved shirt or jacket and long-legged pants. A hat is also a good idea. In an Ukrainian summer a lighter outfit may seem more appropriate, but since visiting the buildings involves walking through bushes, it's a good idea to protect skin from ticks and scratching branches. Water and photographic equipment is also needed. Everything else is probable better left in your accommodation. Lunch was included in our tour price, and the power plant staff canteen served tasty food.

Is it not wrong to travel to places of disaster and suffering, like Chernobyl? Is it right that tour groups make a profit on the misfortune and death of thousands of people? Seeking thrill is a place like that is a little questionable, isn't it? Did I go to Chernobyl in order to prove something to others? These questions are worth consideration. I understand very well if someone wants to stay away of Chernobyl or other places of disaster and suffering, for example the concentration camps of the second world war. It is good and proper to think about one's motives when visiting this kind of places.

In my opinion one can in good conscience travel to Chernobyl and comparable places, but not because of some ego-boosting bucket list or in order to brag about extreme experiences and "courage". The visit should be for better understanding, and also to respect those who suffered. I believe this is easier, if one tries and gets to know the character of the place before the visit.  In case of Chernobyl this means familiarizing oneself with the basics of the history and effects of the disaster. Obviously tour groups profit on Chernobyl trips, and undeniably this involves questions about morality. Of course, I do not know where exactly the 160 US dollars I paid Solo East Travel went. As stated above, the guide assigned to our group was an excellent professional and helpful in understanding Chernobyl. I am happy if my money helped paying his wages.

I recommend the Chernobyl disaster museum in Kiev to those who can't or do not want to visit Chernobyl - and to visitors of Chernobyl, too. It is very informative, but some parts of the exhibition felt a litlle confusing to me.

There's a nuclear power plant less than 25 km (some 15 miles) away from my home. I wouldn't mind if everyone working there visited Chernobyl as part of their training.

I visited Chernobyl in July 2011.

What to do in San Francisco with no flowers in the hair

San Francisco is known as the focal point of the hippie movement, and I'm told one should wear flowers in the hair there. We didn't, and few residents seem to do so either.  The hippies seem to have disappeared. They are not to be found even the symbolic center of the "Summer of Love" in 1967, Haight-Ashbury district, which was not our favourite place in the city. Fortunately, the City by the Bay is full of other interesting places. I've already blogged about some of them.

Golden Gate bridge
The 1300 meter (4200 ft) bridge, completed in 1937, spanning the Golden Gate Strait is probably the best known symbol of San Francisco. It is visible from many places around town - unless there is fog, which may be the second best known symbol of San Francisco. We recommend crossing the bridge by foot, the views of town, Alcatraz and other places are great. Biking the bridge seems to be popular too, but we didn't try that. There are numerous bicycle rental shops in the city, and they also provide maps and route suggestions.

The name Golden Gate refers not only to the bridge but also to the strait the bridge spans. When the bridge was built, the U.S. Navy demanded it should be painted in yellow and black instead of red, for better visibility.

There are telephones on the bridge, with direct access to crisis counseling. There is no doubt this is a good thing, but it is a shivering thought nevertheless.

Mission
Mission is one of the most interesting districts of San Francisco. The name refers to a mission the Spanish founded in 1776, Mission San Francisco de Asís, after which the whole city was named. Today many residents of the district are of Latin American descent. Spanish seems to be at least as widely spoken as English.

Mission is known for its murals.

Thia mural pays tribute to Salvadoran bishop Óscar Romero, who spoke out against poverty and injustice and was murdered while offering mass in 1980.

Mission San Francisco de Asís is also known as Mission Dolores. Its church is the oldest building standing in the city.

Mission is an excellent neighborhood for a meal. Like many others, we recommend the El Farolito on the corner of Mission and 24th, right next to a metro station. We ate there twice, the food was excellent and service speedy and friendly ("what kind of meat for you, bro?") even though the place was unbelievably crowded (which seems to be a permanent state of affairs).

Ferries
The fastest and most practical connection between San Francisco and Oakland, on the Eastern shore of San Francisco bay, is the BART suburban train. However, in good weather we recommend taking the ferry instead. Also Sausalito and Tiburon, to the North of the Golden Gate, are accessible by ferry from San Francisco.

The historical Ferry Building still serves as the ferry terminal ofFrancisco.

We recommend buying lunch and/or ice cream from one of the Ferry Building's many takeout joints and eating on one of the nearby piers (pay attention to seagulls, though).

Golden Gate Park
There are bisons, the De Young Art Museum and a Japanese Garden (and more) in the largest park of the city.

 De Young Museum

Japanese garden.

Japanese garden.

Bisons were hiding from the heat in shade and I didn't get any proper photos of them.

Street climbing
San Francisco is famous from steep hillside streets.

Yes, steep.

Twin Peaks is not only a TV series, it is also a viewpoint in San Francisco.

Dark Side
San Francisco is no paradise. Every big city, and many small ones, have their problems. On the streets of San Francisco live an alarming number of homeless people, many of them clearly with severe substance abuse problems. The homeless are more numerous, or at least more visible, than in New York, London or Berlin, for example. One of the first San Franciscans we met was smoking pot in a park at 8 AM, having a lively conversation with someone visible only to him.

The slums of the underprivileged and the city's most prestigious properties are sometimes right next to each other. An example of this is the beautiful park in front of the City Hall, with pathways clean enough to serve a meal on. The grim, depressing district of Tenderloin literally begins one block away from the park. There the overfilled, unemptied trashcans spill their contents on the streets, the homeless are sleeping under bus top benches and a repulsive smell of urine hovers over everything. I have not witnessed such a steep contrast in wealth anywhere in the so-called Western World. The closest comparison that I can think of is Tbilisi.

Oakland, across the Bay and a 10-minute train ride away from San Francisco, is statistically the violent crime capital of California and one of the most dangerous cities in United States. However, there's statistically no reason to get hysterical. We stayed in the infamous West Oakland for a week, and not once did we feel threatened in any way.

We visited San Franciscossa in June 2015.

Maritime History of San Francisco

Balclutha, a full-rigged ship built in Scotland, 1887.

Once upon a time San Francisco wass the most important port on the United States West Coast. No surprise then that there are several interesting museum ships there. If you're as interested in them as I am, you can easily spend a whole week day exploring them.

The San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, another gem ran by the National Park Service, is situated on the touristy Fisherman's Wharf. It includes several museum vessels, many of which are accessible to visitors. Full-rigger Balclutha sailed in commercial freight traffic from 1887 to 1930, and has an interesting and eventful history. For example, she was the last ship ever to fly the flag of the independent kingdom of Hawaii. There's a well-designed exhibition in the cargo hold about different cargoes transported by the Balclutha. All of the ship is accessible, but climbing the rigging is prohibited. In the captains's salon, in the galley and in the forecastle the visitors can imagine what it felt like to sail an ocean-going sailing vessel, when trips lasted several months.

Captain's salon.

Crew quarters in the forecastle. I don't think the anchor windlass in the middle of the room did much for comfort. The picture is taken with a fish-eye lens and is therefore distorted.

Balclutha's figurehead.

The paddle-wheel ferry Eureka is also very interesting, in a completely different way than Balclutha. She was built only three years later, in 1890, and she's almost as big as the ocean-going fullrigger. She originally transported trainso over the Golden Gate from San Francisco to Sausalito. After the First World War she was converted to a passenger and car ferry. After the Golden Gate Bridge and Bay Bridge were completed in th 1930s, most of the numerous ferries of the San Francisco Bay were decommissioned. Eureka, however, remained in traffic until 1957.

Entrance to the Eureka.

The car deck.

The passenger deck. It only took about half an hour to get from Sausalito to San Francisco, but there was a restaurant serving full meals on the Eureka.

Technologically Eureka was quite old-fashioned already when built. Paddle-wheels had largely been replaced by propellers, and the one-cylinder steam engine was based on 18th-century technology. The machinery was simple, and reliable on a vessel designed for continuous short trips. It was important to keep maintenance costs low and time required for repairs short.

Eureka's engine, picture taken with a fish-eye lens..

The engine explained.

The Historical Park's collections include other vessels as well, like thid paddle-wheel tug.

The museum, also included in the Historical Park, was under renovation, but we could see some nice scale models in the lobby. This one depicts San Francisco harbor around the 1849 gold rush. The sailing vessel Niantic had arrived from the U.S. East Coast, sailing around Cape Horn. The owners decided to convert it to a shop and tavern - at the time, the potential profit was greater than in shipping industry.

Another model featured the crew in masts.

A few blocks away there's a Liberty-class freight steamer Jeremiah O'Brien, built during the Second World War. She's not a part of the Historical Park but ran by an association. She is seaworthy and in navigable condition, and does sail every now and then. In her hold visitors can see an exhibition on the Liberty ships, which were built for war material transports. Between 1941 and 1945, 2710 were built.

Liberty-class freighter Jeremiah O'Brien.

The telegrapher's cabin.

Fist mate's cabin. The radio equipment is not original but for the modern use of the ship.

The Jeremiah O'Brienin operational main engine.

The rescue ladder of the engine room. Would you want to climb this to escape a burning engine room after the ship has been hit by a torpedo?

There's another WWII vessel next to the Jeremiah O'Brien, the submarine USS Pampanito.

Fisherman's Wharf is probably the most touristy area of San Francisco and it is not my favorite place in the city. The museum ships are great, but in addition to them there are mostly plastic, overpriced theme restaurants and souvenir shops. However, there is one more reason to visit the Fisherman's Wharf: The sea lion colony on Pier 39. Jolly creatures. Smelly, though.

Every now and then one should show off for the tourists...

...but mostly it's best just to relax.

We visited the ships on June 5th and 28th 2015.